Day 7 Carcassonne to Castelnaudary 29 miles Running total 148

Here is todays route https://ridewithgps.com/routes/42290406

After cycling uphill to our hotel yesterday as it was built into the hillside of the fortified town, and all at the end of a hard day, the good news is it is downhill to the canal this morning. We called our bedroom the dungeon, which, although nice, was located below ground with only a small window. We can’t see, but the weather app says it will be dry and sunny today, but still with a strong wind against us. Well, you can’t have everything!

The first half of the day is well sheltered from the wind by the established plain trees, yet to be felled. The second half has had trees removed and is being resurfaced. This is where we suddenly come across the workers with machinery blocking the way, but there is no signage to warn us. The supervisor (a handsome young French man, according to my compatriot) helped her round the obstructions.

Further down the track, we find what looks like a smooth, completed towpath, but it is closed off by Herras fencing, perhaps they don’t want us spoiling their lovely surface. There are no diversion signs to help us, and so, after consulting Garmin, we head for the nearest village that also had a sign indicating the location of a restaurant. So, with the intention of having a coffee and replanning the route, we follow the sign. On the way, a young driver stopped and told us it was better to go in the other direction to avoid the main road. Or that is what we think he said. We continued to the restaurant which was closed, but there was a shop. We purchased lunch, including a bottle of wine, with a screw top for easier carriage should we not drink it all.

Ignoring our French advisor, we took to the main road for half a mile, which was not pleasant, then we turned onto some small roads to join the finished towpath further along the canal after first consulting Garmin.

We still wanted a coffee, and Google showed there was a cafe at a road junction with the canal a little further on, and you guessed it was closed. But close by, there was a picnic area, so we opted for a lunch stop.

We soon get back to cycling. We are happier but less stable. We can see the Pyrenees in the distance with snow still on the tops, or are we drunk?

We came across another resurfacing gang but with no signage or help to get past their equipment, what is happening?

In addition to cycling into the wind, I have discovered another downside to doing this route the opposite way to the advice in the guidebooks. When travelling north, there are a succession, of not insignificant up hills at all the lock flights. I won’t mention this to my compatriot and hope she has not noticed.

We arrive in Castelnauday, and this is the best view we have had anywhere so far, probably helped by the blue sky and sunshine. We decide the view merits a beer, so we sit and take it all in.

At about 4:30 pm we decided we should find our hotel and Google guided us to the door but it has a sign telling us the hotel is shut until 5:30. I locked the bike securely to a lamppost outside, and we crossed the road to a bar opposite for more beer. All was going well until I came to unlock the combination lock to move the bikes and check in. I did not seem to be able to do so. I tried several nearby numbers to the combination to no avail. My compatriot suggested she should have a go. Although I thought this was a lost cause I let her, and hey presto she opened it. I doubt I will hear the end of this and may wish I had gone and purchased a hacksaw and bolt cutters!

Once we manage to check in, the bikes go across the road and into the bowels of a hotel opposite ours for the night. The Chinese laundry is opened, and our washing is hung from the curtain rail. We then go out to explore the historic town area.

After a walk round town in the evening sun, we opt for a Rickard and ice outside our hotel with its Cassoulet award winning restaurant.

Would we be doing this at home? I don’t think so, and therefore, it’s worth the effort, or that’s what I tell my compatriot.