Bordeaux to Blaye 31 miles Running Total 399 miles

Here is todays route. https://ridewithgps.com/routes/42317046

Today promises to be interesting (well for us) as we have to cross the Garonne by ferry from Lamarque to Blaye. There are no bridge options outside of Bordeaux because they do not want to  obstruct shipping reaching Bordeaux, historically an important port. The cycle route has two ferry options. We are going for the nearest one, which only runs six times a day at this time of year. The other option is double the distance from Bordeaux. We are aiming for the 3:30 ferry but have the backup of the one at 5pm if we miss that.

The route out of Bordeaux was on 10 miles of  cycleways from the centre to the outskirts where we were to join small roads. I had not anticipated how good the cycleway would be, and that cars give cyclists preference at every junction and crossing. We made very quick progress getting out of Bordeaux. The weather is changable today, with a bright start and then at 11 am, we have to shelter under the old oak tree with the advantage that we had time to hear a cuckoo calling.

The ride continues with sunshine and light showers seeing us under different trees along the way while we travel through miles of vine yards and forests.

We pass a very green lake and spot a picnic bench under an oak tree (another one), which is still dry. The sun has come out so we stop for lunch. The wine drunk from the coronation chalice has not improved from being in a plastic water bottle for three days. Nevertheless, we drink it with our food.

We pressed on in the sunshine between showers and arrived at the Lamarque ferry terminal two hours early. There were no cafes open at any point during the entire 30-mile journey. The good news is that there is a cafe at the port, so we, while away the waiting time with various  refreshments.

At exactly 3:30, the ferry arrived. Luckily, a French cyclist had arrived too, and the ferry operative gave her and me instructions. My compatriot was just out of earshot doing her next French lesson on the Babel app.  She is getting better with her French, but she’s never there when I need her. As I had not understood a word of the instructions, we followed the French cyclist’s every move. She was intent on not getting eye contact or speaking to these elderly English cyclists who were suddenly stalking her. However, our strategy of following her got us onto the ferry with the bikes, at the right place to store them, and to the toll booth so we could pay for the tickets.

Our accommodation for tonight is in Blaye, where the ferry docks and we disembark. All has gone well.  This is a day that could have gone terribly wrong had we not reached the ferry on time, or the ferry had not run for some reason. However, it did, and all went to plan, and we enjoyed the experience.

Blaye is an unexpectedly interesting place with a large fortified citadel, which is very picturesque. The area originally belonged to the British in the Middle Ages, and then Louis 14th built this fortress to defend the Garonne and keep us and other invaders out. My history loving compatriot told me all this.

Because we are out of season, we opted for a dinner provided by our host, Evri (we are not sure how to spell his name, but as he delivered dinner, it is Evri). It was a take it or leave it meal again, but we were not disappointed. All local products. Oysters, fish with stir-fried vegetables, and dauphinouis potatoes, followed by apple and almond tart washed down with a local wine.

The accommodation is very tastefully decorated. It turns out that Evri is a designer making bespoke items mainly using feathers.

Tomorrow should be a more relaxed day, although the weather is still changable.