Domfront – St Hilaire-du-Harcourt 19 miles plus 19.

The sky does not look as wild as yesterday and the traffic free route starts opposite our hotel all the way to tonights destination. This bodes well for day 17, especially as my compatriot has returned her sun top to the bottom of her pannier. This is the point, on our trip, where last years north south route crosses this years east west route. Yesterday, once I had sorted out my glasses so I could read signs and the Garmin route, we walked back to photograph the signs. We will have cycled through all the places listed on the signposts, by the end of the trip.

At the start of the route this morning, we speak to a Belgium tandam couple, a gaggle of french cyclists, and an English couple out for the day on hired electric bikes. Then we were on our own again. My compatriot complains there is something wrong with her back wheel. Although most of it is round the bottom is square. Could it be that there is no air in the tyre due to her suffering a puncture. We repair the punture and my compatriot has a go at pumping the tyre up. However she fails to notice it has popped off the rim. I let it down, re-seat it, and pump it up again. It was a good try but if you want a job doing!!!

We then continue along the cycle way until we find a tree blocking the path which we have to push past.

The route today is very tame compared to yesterdays ride with most of the journey being along disused railway tracks, so straight and flat. The countryside is very lush, despite the recent heat wave, with cattle, horses, goats and the occasional field of maize. However at around 10.30 a.m. it starts to shower and so we divert into Baratone, a small town, and find the tabac. Coffee and tea are ordered and I look along the counter. Madam asks me what I am looking for, I answer chocolate in my best French accent. Messieur disappears and comes with a bar of their own chocolate which is given to us for €2. I am only allowed, by my compatriot, to share 50% of the bar of chocolate and she will retain the other 50% for another day. It remains to be seen whether it ever appears again while I am there to claim my share. We stop on a picnic bench to eat our fruit. I am allowed to eat a whole apple but this reminds me I still have a problem with my tooth. I therefore take the opportunity to phone, and make an appointment, with my dentist when I return to England.

There is a large waterfall off todays route which the guide says is worth a visit. As it is a short day and the weather is mostly dry we decide it is worth adding another 6 miles to the days total, to visit the water falls. Once found they are underwhelming, although we learn they are the largest in Northern France.

On the bumpy track, we followed to the waterfalls, my gears start playing up. I discover the bolts holding the front crank to the web are loose and two are missing. I redistribute the remaining three bolts and this is the point I discover that you need two allan keys to tighten them up. Only having both on the same tool does not work. I tighten as much as I can with my fingers and we return downhill to the cycle way. While re-checking the bolts a Spanish couple stop to ask if we are okay. We admit we are not and ask if he has an allan key. Using his multi tool with mine I tighten the remaining bolts.

We continue to St Hilaire-du-Harcourt and locate the hotel. We then cycle round the town to look for a bike shop to obtain the special bolts. On the way we look at the church, and spot the tourist information office. The lady there informs us that there are two bike shops, which she marks on a map for us. However, she explains that both are closed for Assumption Day.

We retire to a tabac for a drink and to consider our options. After checking the map the bike shops look to be on the other side of town so we decide to ride to check them out. They were closed and as they were in the wrong direction for our route I debated whether I really needed to teturn in the morning. However, on the way back to the hotel a much more serious problem occured. There was a twanging noise and it was clear a spoke had broken. The wheel must have buckeled slightly and started rubbing the mudguard. The decision has therefore been made, I will have to return to see whether, at least one of the bike shops have the parts and can repair the wheel while we wait. According to Google they open at 09:30 or 10:00 in the morning respectivly. We continue back to the hotel.Tonight’s hotel is coincidently the same hotel our friends Martin & Sue stayed in a couple of months ago. Julie the English receptionist remembered them. Our friends also recommended the steak and mash in the restaurant which we will try.