St Hilaire-du-Harcourt – Mont St Michel 30 miles plus 4.

After an earlier than usual breakfast we start the morning by heading in the wrong direction towards the cycle shop that google claims to open at 09:30. Google is right, there is a young lad working on a bike when we arrive. I ask if he speaks English in English and he shrugs. I try the words broken spoke and he says something and gestures to bring the bike in. Our luck is in, and he immediately removes the wheel and competently starts taking it apart and measuring spokes. He reassembles and trues the wheel, then re-fits it to the bike. I could almost have kissed him but decided as I am British to shake his hand instead. I then thought I would try my luck with the missing bolts. Hurrah he has those as well and fits them for me. In anticipation of renovating the whole bike I also purchased two bottle racks as one of mine had broken and the bottle had been held in place with velcro for most of the trip. If they had sold panniers we would have replaced my compatriots bulging and split ones, but there were none for sale.

All was now good and it was only 10:30 so we cycled back across town to find the cycle way. Saint Hilaire de Harcourt was luckily for us a much bigger town than we had expected. It had been severely bombed by the allies in WW2 with 78% destroyed including the church. The church has been beautifully restored and the town was much more ‘alive’ than some we have passed through. It also had two bike shops the Germans and British must have missed, which was a bit of luck.

After a climb out of the town we re-join our route which is similar to yesterdays track. We take a diversion, by choice, into a small town called Isigny for coffee and tea. I replace the broken bottle rack on my bike while my compatriot drinks her tea.

We continued on the cycleway stopping to visit the castle in Ducey which was recommended in the route book.

Further along the cycleway ended and we continued on small roads that weaved around through villages and up and down hills giving glimpses of Mont St Michelle from every angle. We are once again up against a strong headwind after leaving the shelter of the cycleway.

On reaching the hotel the room is not ready so we leave the bikes outside reception and walk to a restaurant. Along with sparkling water I am allowed to order a pizza to share. It is a very inefficient and touristy restaurant, however after an hour the pizza never turns up so we walk out (I thought it to good to be true). We return to the hotel and the room is still not ready. Fortunately this is the first time we have been in a high tourist area, and the first time with generally bad service.

The delay does us a favour in that by the time we set off to walk to Mont St Michelle the crowds are leaving. After the walk there, climbing the ramparts, and my compatriot queuing for toilets, I am allowed an ice cream. We decide it is no suprise it feels a bit touristy and tacky.

We walk back along the causeway chatting with a delightful Parisian couple and taking each others photos. My compatriot suddenly feels hungry. We dive into a restaurant as it opens and a shower starts. It is a nice traditional Normandy meal before returning to the hotel.

Weather forecast is not great for tomorrow but only 50 miles left to do in two days to catch the ferry. Easy!