Astorga to Molinaseca.

We have a very civilised 9am start today. With the first stage of our cycle involving trying to find our way out through the town. We pass various cyclists and walkers (pilgrims) many of whom probably set off before we were even awake. Todays ride is now uphill all the way and with the group setting a fast pace I am still not feeling great. After an hour cycling we stop in a cafe for coffee. It is then announced that the ride gets steeper until lunch in another hour and half. At this point I decide to give in and get a ride in the van, my loyal compatriot decides to join me.

The hills do not seem so bad in an air-conditioned van and we feel frauds, but over lunch, which we shared with Andrew & Sharon, who are both doctors, I was given a consultation. They explained the medical reason I am coughing, tired, and very short of breath following my bout of covid several weeks ago. I feel slightly better now I know my condition is not just down to old age.

After lunch we get back in the van for a ride to the top of the mountain, which is equal in height to Ben Nevis. As the rest of the ride is a very long, winding down hill descent we get back on our bikes and set off ahead of the group. My compatriot was not so keen on this, due to the narrow double bends and steep decent. So I might suggest she does the ups and I do the downs as a team effort.

At the  bottom of the hill there is a delightful village called Molineseca where we are staying for the night. We cross an old packhorse bridge and stop on a quaint road called the Royal Road. We quickly find a bar but due to our relative lack of exersion and some embarrassment, opt for sparkling water, rather than beer.

We eventually check into our hotel and on opening my suitcase, to get ready to explore, a very nice smell escapes. I thought, I don’t recognise that smell and on unpacking I found my trousers covered in some oily perfume, that definitely did not belong to me, and must have come from someone else’s suitcase. I tried washing the trousers and shirt and hanging them out of the window, but the stains did not come out. At dinner I need to see if anyone else smells the same to find the perpetrator of this spillage.

Once the laundry has been completed we get ready to hit the town. Molineseca, however, has only one shop, a church, several bars, and rows of traditional cottages. We take an obligatory photograph of the Royal Cross and head for a bar. We have forgotten our lack of uphill cycling and ordered beers!!

The evening ended with a pleasant alfresco group meal, and a less pleasant announcement that breakfast is at 7am pilgrim time tomorrow.